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DIY: Home Climbing Board

by Jake Jackson

As I’m not within walking distance to any crags/climbing gyms are shut/I can’t face another fingerboard session, I set out to build a 40-degree home board. Included is the process I used plus plenty of pictures to inspire anyone wanting to try.


Keep training, but without your mates

 Ideally you want a good solid area that you can bolt the wall too. As I don’t have a garage and the pre-built shed in my garden is super flimsy, I set about building a sturdy shed, which added a considerable amount of time, money and work onto the finished build. Tips on shed building not included, you are on your own with that one.

I had multiple anchor points to begin screwing into to form the base of the wall. The width is 2.4m so lends itself to the strips of timber and ply that come from the merchant, which saved extra cutting.

I first started with the kickboard frame as this would provide a base to how I would measure the angled beams but also helps to support the board. This measured 10 inches high and is made out of 2 3×2” timber beams with 3 supports at the middle and end.

I then bolted a 5×2” (as per my mate Eddies suggestion, thanks Eddie) above the kickboard frame which would provide a sturdy timber plank to bold the 40-degree beams against. I would do the same on the roof beams too. This took a bit of fiddling to get the right angles on the chop saw!

A spirit level is your friend

I measured the distance between the first and last angled joist, in this case, I could place beams every 2 foot. You could put them closer to strengthen even more, however I only had 5 planks left! You also want to ensure there is a beam in the middle where the joins of the plywood sheets are so you can screw into it for support!

You can see the screws I used throughout the build were a mix of 4”, 5” and 6” inches long and cost about £5 a pack from my local DIY shop (Make sure to wear ear defenders when using the impact driver)

Once I had put all the vertical angled beams in (5 in total), I then put 50cm lengths in-between each beam to provide support to strengthen the entire wall. They’re slightly offset so I can get two screws into each side, in theory this helps with the strength rather than splitting the wood if you screw in at an angle (in hindsight it’s not the easiest to screw the ply too when they’re all at random points, so you might choose otherwise!)

Got to stay warm when exiled to the shed

Because I built the wall in a shed, I wanted to insulate behind the wall before I put the ply wall up! I used some ‘earth wool’ insulation. This is essentially recycled glass bottles and is apparently as eco as using sheep’s wool. I would have done this too, but my sheep are not getting sheared until May!

I built this so it would fit two 8ftx4ft plywood sheets (18mm) and I didn’t want to have to cut them, as my straight-line skills are not the best. I then screwed every foot around the edged and through the middle to secure the ply onto the 3×2” frame behind.

Spare planks of wood are your friend when moving around heavy plywood sheets, especially in a tight area. I found myself regularly using my head as well!

I had to cut some notches on the sides when I came to fit the second sheet (I did this with my jigsaw as I was slightly out on my measurement’s!) Who said they didn’t want to cut the sheets?

Keeping with my imperial measurements, as I wanted to have a ‘system board’, I drew lines at 1 foot spacing so I wasn’t guessing where I would screw the holds onto. A tip if you’re doing this is to use clamps or a light piece of wood (I used a long strip of 3×2” and my arms were aching afterwards!!).

I began to put up some holds I’d bought from a few different small online companies (all of which are exceptional quality and provide great variety).

Holds used: Silly Goat / Taylor Made / Beastmaker

Save your wood for me

When I was at the timber yard collecting the wood for the build, I saw some tulipwood batons that were really cheap. I thought these would be perfect for some footholds/crimps. From a 2.4m length I made about 40 small foot holds and 6 crimps/undercuts! Just be careful when screwing them on (they can easily crack in half)

For tips on making your own wooden holds – please read a previous post – Making your own holds

I cut two sections of 12mm ply offcuts for the kickboard. Ideally, I would have used the same 18mm like the board itself but the 12mm felt sturdy enough with the timber behind it. This measured up at 10 inches tall and 4 foot wide per sheet.

The ‘finished’ board after a few sessions of use. Overall, the build went fairly successful and was relatively straight forward to do- I hope I gave you a few tips for your planning or when you come to make a board to train on and good luck with all your training!

It won’t replace the camaraderie of your local wall but I’m sure you can put some hecklers on speaker phone to keep your psyche high.

For more wholesome climbing related stuff, follow Jake on Instagram : @jake.jacksn


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How to thread a sewing machine.

A step by step guide to setting up a sewing machine including adjusting tension and troubleshooting.

With pictures! (Because rushing to pause videos at the right bit is a pain in the arse)

Firstly, don’t be afraid of trial and error. Most machines work in a similar way but with slight differences, but if you understand the general set up, you should be able to thread any machine that comes your way. We have mainly Singer Machines and the ones we have taken pictures of are Semi Industrial, models 66K and a 328K (I’ve also included a photo of our industrial Brother zig Zag to give you an idea of how they vary)

1. Choose the right needle and thread.

Needles

If you have the wrong needle for your machine brand, the bottom hook may struggle to collect thread in order to send it back up. Provided you have brand compatible needles you will notice they come with names like ‘Leather’ ‘Jersey’ ‘Stretch’ which is kind of self explanatory. If in doubt, just buy ‘Universal’.

As a general rule the lighter the fabric, the smaller needle you’ll need. The two numbers on the needle size are basically just the same thing, one is European and one is American.

What will you be sewing?

Leather/ jeans/ heavier fabric: a Sharps needle has a cutting point so it cuts the fabric, so good for layers of fabrics or big tough ones. Size: 100/16, 110/18 or 90/14

Knit/ lighter fabric: Ballpoint or Jersey needles, rounded tip doesn’t cut into the fabric, but instead pushes aside, so you don’t end up ruining your fabric with massive holes or runs. Size: 90/14, 80/12 or 75/11(60/8 and 70/10 for things like silk and lace)

Stretchy fabric, Lycra, elastic: a Stretch needle, has a ball point but with a ‘scarf’ which kind of allows more room for the bottom hook to grab the thread and stops missed stitches. Size: this depends on how heavy the fabric is, so see above.

Threads

For threads, you want to look at thickness and what it is made from. As with needles, the heavier the fabric, the thicker thread you will need, but also more visible the stitch will be.

They are usually measured in ‘tex’ which is basically weight per 1000 metres. Higher the heavier. Obviously.

Light weight fabrics: sizes 16-30

Medium weight fabrics: 30-60

Heavy weight fabrics: 60-135

However, it seems like different brands have different ways of measuring which is really handy. It is a confusing mine field buying thread sometimes as it also can be measured in ‘wt’, which REALLY ANNOYINGLY is where the lower the number, the stronger the thread. So watch out for that.

You can use cotton or polyester/nylon. Polyester threads tend to be stronger, good for thicker fabrics and are good for stretchy fabrics as there is a degree of stretch in the thread. Cottons are suitable for stitching cotton fabric. It is always best to match the thread with the fabric.

2. Threading the machine.


Thread comes in from the right through a retaining loop.

Then straight down into the tension wheel, make sure the thread sits well between the plates.

Clockwise round, on the outside of the little wire moving loop, and up to the arm.

Thread through the hole and then back down again, don’t forget the clip on the left side which directs the thread to the needle.

There is usually a smaller loop on the place that holds the needle to loop through as well.

This is an older machine, and a bit simpler.

Same concept through, in from the right, through a hook.

Down in between tension plates, clockwise round, this time thread goes under wire loop.

Through hook and back up to arm, through hole on arm and down again.

Thread goes through clip on the left side to guide thread towards needle.

This is our industrial machine with a different set up.

Still goes through tension plates and the arm is under the cover on the left, the thread goes around that.

If you have a more modern machine, they have really helpful arrows. The jist is Left – Down – Tension – Up – Down to needle with different variations on the way. The sewing machine often has a model number printed somewhere and it is relatively easy to download instruction manuals for your specific machine if you struggle.

Not done yet.

You need to thread the bottom spool. Spool sits in with thread pulling from the left on this one. Pull end through notch on the right, behind the tension plate and back in through notch on left. Leave a long tail for needle to pull through before you start sewing.

3. Where does the needle go? Which way?

The needles are held in with a tiny screw, which you can undo with a small flat head screwdriver.

This is the front of the needle. Curved top, with a vertical groove (‘scarf’) where the hole is. This faces towards you. Sometimes machines have needle facing outwards, in this case, this side will be facing out left.

This is the back of the needle. The top is flat and there is a horizonatal scoop above the hole. You can figure out which way the needle goes in the machine by looking where the flat bit sits. Push the needle up into the head until you feel resistance. Make sure you tighten the screw well so it won’t work loose.

4. Tension correct and Troubleshooting.

On the top of the fabric:

  1. Top tension slightly too high
  2. Just right, the threads on both sides are pulled evenly.
  3. Just right, the threads on both sides are pulled evenly.
  4. Bottom tension too loose. Top tension too high.
  5. Bottom tension too loose. Top tension too high.

On the bottom of the fabric:

  1. Top tension slightly too loose.
  2. Just right
  3. Just right
  4. Top tension too loose. Bottom too high.
  5. Top tension too loose. Bottom too high.

What does it even mean?

You have two ways of adjusting the tension on your sewing machine. Begin by adjusting the top one first.

Righty Tighty. Lefty Loosey.

Make sure the foot is up before turning. When the foot is down, the plates close together and grip the thread.

Clockwise: tighter = higher tension

Anti Clockwise: looser =lower tension.

Once you adjust, re thread and do a tester piece of fabric before continuing sewing. You can continue to make amendments until it is just right.

Same thing on this simpler one – turn right to make tension high, and left to loosen it.

Bottom spool tension adjustment.

If adjusting the top one doesn’t work, it is worth seeing if it is the bottom one causing all the problems.

The small screws at the bottom of the spool casing. They are the ones you need. There is one screw holding it all together (right one in picture) and the adjustment screw is on the left (the one with the dome head).

Small screwdriver needed – and same thing again: right = tight / left= loose. But only turn it in quarter turns at a time.

There you have it. One sewing machine with thread all in the right places and correct tension throughout.

All sewing machines work on the same principle; a needle pushes a loop of thread through fabric – and a rotating hook goes through the loop and pulls the loop over the thread coming off the bottom spool. When the needle retracts (providing tension is all right) both top and bottom threads are intertwined with the twist hidden inside the fabric at the puncture point.

Don’t be afraid to get stuck in, and learn about how it all works…it will be easier to fix that way.

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Make a wooden climbing hold: expert level

Salvaged wood pocket hold, handmade for home climbing walls

Handmade pockets using salvaged log wood. A step by step guide.

So, the last hold was too easy, huh? James upped his game and chipped away to make a two finger pocket wooden hold.


1. Get wood, drill hole.

Salvaged wood climbing holds

It all started with a perilous journey to find the perfect tree, chop, and leave for a year to dry and season.

In our case, we saved our shed from destruction by a scary, heavy looking branch, and kept it as it ‘might come in handy’. It wasn’t seasoned, either.

Prepare your ‘might come in handy’ bits of wood, obviously it needs to be big enough to have a hole big enough for your pocket. This was about 4″. Saw off the end so you’ve got a nice flat end to work from.

I used a 3/4″ spade hole cutter bit; a Forstner bit would’ve been better- but I don’t have one. Alternatively, drill lots of small holes with a regular drill bit, the bigger the better. Make sure you do this carefully with the log in a stable position, ideally clamped in place.



2. Chisel.

Using a chisel and a heavy object, dig out the hole to make it larger. Enough to accommodate as many fingers as you want. Please be careful doing this, chisels are sharp. Unless it’s ours, which is not.


3. Countersink.

Countersink to a depth of 5mm at the positions of the mounting screws (we used three screws, one at the top and two at the bottom). The depth of the countersink is to accommodate the screw head but is not absolutely crucial if you don’t have a countersink bit.

Drilling out a pocket hold

4. Shape and saw.

Using a rasp, bevel all the square edges and give the face of the hold some shape. Measure where you want the base of the hold to be, and saw it off. Keep it nice and straight, as this will be the back screwed against the wall. Obviously, when you cut the hold off the log, consider how deep you want your pocket to be. The length you cut off will determine the pocket depth.

Rough shape of climbing hold

5. Drill mounting holes, sand.

Drill holes for mounting. In order to shape and finish the hold, mount it to something solid (waste bit of wood, for instance) so you can go at it with sandpaper (250/400 grit), without having to hold it in your hand, until it’s nice and smooth.

Home climbing training, wooden pocket hold

6. Screw to board.

Make sure you screw this to something relatively solid. We don’t want you to pull your shed down. Climb.

Salvaged wood pocket hold, handmade for home climbing walls

Expert level, completed.

James.

Disclaimer: we take no responsibility in loss of limbs, grazed skin, or bruised egos whilst you make your own holds. Use your common sense.