Posted on Leave a comment

Dirtbag Diary: James – overcoming injury.

Humans are quite good at problem solving. As Dirtbags solely uses recycled materials and machines in need of repair there has been quite a bit of problem solving to understand how we can create what we want from what we have at our disposal.

Lately I have been doing a lot problem solving. Since breaking my leg in Fontainebleau after landing awkwardly off my pad blowing my MCL and ACL. At first I struggled to come to terms with my injury and how my knee may never work the same again. It’s strange how having a problem to solve takes your mind off of immediate longer term problems like healing a climbing preventing injury. For example, a good few hours designing and building our own embroidery machine for the labels took my mind off the injury for a while, but being stopped from climbing in the longer term was the last thing I was going to allow to happen.

Night bouldering at Trowbarrow Quarry, Jame on Shallow Groove V11.
Trowbarrow Quarry – Shallow Groove V11
James in front of hospital with his new knee brace.
Brace yourself…

At first the frustration is immense, I actually spent 11 days laid up in Chamonix before I made it home. Staring at mountains you can’t climb only leaves you with one option….the bar. Rehabilitation started slowly as my leg was so swollen but after two months of intensive physiotherapy and lots of ice I started to get back into climbing outside. Here’s a quick run through of my of how I managed to get back to roped climbing within 5 months without surgery.

  • I didn’t take Naproxen to reduce swelling as there is evidence that it hinders the ligament healing process
  • I used constant ice and heat to get blood flowing to the area (ice also really helped with the pain).
  • Know the difference between the aches and pains of healing and making it worse pain
  • Knowing the above allowed me to tentatively put weight on my knee with a brace on and then start to regain flexion and extension (this hurts but you have to try really hard).
  • Once I could bend my leg a little I went hard with the TENS machine followed by a few private and NHS physio sessions
  • I stuck to the physio exercises religiously and did them two to three times a day to get my quads and hamstring working properly again.
  • I started going to the climbing wall and got straight back leading with a brace on.

Now five months on, and as a result of exploring every avenue to healing my leg, and training my upper body in the mean time; I’m already on the road to returning stronger.

A large part of my motivation to climb comes from finding a route that inspires me and makes me want to go climbing. I was feeling pretty low about not being able to climb well again so I knew that finding a new project route would be a large motivator to sorting out my head. My body would heal with time but the confidence I had in my physical ability had gone to shit.

Only a few days ago, while Wetherlam was dusted with snow and a mist hung low in Hodge Close Quarry I was dangling over the water scrubbling lichen from my new project. Excited for warmer, drier times to get back on the rock, some potential E6 slate is definitely on the cards for 2019.

I really enjoy climbing on the slate, it lends itself well to a climbing style typically adopted from climbing indoors. You move from hold to hold but without large dependency on smearing such as a grit route perhaps.

The Lakes slate areas sometimes get a bad rep due to their chossy nature. I love exploring esoteric choss that nobody wants to climb on and find something new in amongst the rubble pile. While Tilberthwaite Quarry is well known, some of its routes appear reclaimed by nature, part crumbling and dangerous looking. I’m always surprised to not see more people climbing at Tilberthwaite Quarry. In such a pleasant setting there are some great lines here with an adventurous feel, protected by a mixture of bolts and trad gear.

I’m always intrigued when I walk up to old routes in the slate quarries. Could I climb this route? Is the old peg still safe?

James Dickinson: Latex Generation E5 6b

The first route I projected rather than trying to onsight was Latex Generation, my favorite to date! The process of working this route opened up a door allowing me to realise that I could climb a lot harder if I really wanted to.

Initially I set up a shunt on the route, scrubbed twenty years of lichen off all the apparent holds and started to piece together all the weird compression moves, long powerful reaches and strange jams. It felt ridiculously hard.

I top roped Latex Generation a few times sporadically and finally I was able to make it through the first powerful crux, through the mid-section protected by a rotting peg and a tri-cam placed into a shot hole and up to the final hard move. This must be the 6b move. While smearing on slate, toe cammed in behind a flake and a two finger lock as deep as the first joint, a really powerful sideways dyno is made to a ledge. As I went for it, I latched the small flake hold of the ledge at the absolute extent of my reach. The hold snapped off and I took a big swing with the flake in my hand. The problem now was that I knew I could make it this high but I also knew how hard the sideways leap was and didn’t think I would ever be able to do this move, it was at the absolute limit of my reach even with a jump. A month later I was back. I top roped the route with a friend, making it to the upper crux and stuck the sideways dyno. I was at the top.

When working on a route at your limit I love and hate this moment.

I got straight on the lead the following afternoon. After placing the last piece just below the upper crux I lunged sideways, brushed the ledge with my fingertips, took a big fall onto the old fixed protection and smashed into a razor slate edge with my heel.

I could feel my heel swelling and I knew that if I didn’t try again, this time committing fully in my head then I wouldn’t be able to try again until the bruising had gone down. Back at the upper crux I clipped the gear. I felt really tense but after composing myself I sank the tips of the first two fingers of my right hand into one of the best finger locks you could ever wish for. Releasing, I leaped across the blank wall and latched the ledge. Mantel up, bridge the corner, off the top, done.      

I felt really absorbed by this climbing experience and the problem solving process. The exploration finding a route that inspires you, working out how the climb the route and the challenge are all great motivators for climbing but also as mini lessons on dealing with things that push you physically and mentally.

James Dickinson leading Latex Generation E5 6b – Tilberthwaite Quarry

Lesson: If there’s something you want to do whether that be solving a technical problem, recovering from injury or even working out the crux on a route then take something positive away from every failure and learn from the experience until you can eventually overcome the challenge.

Posted on Leave a comment

Anna Taylor – Climber Interview

Anna Taylor, a young upcoming climber – sponsored by Sportiva, Petzl, and now us! She has recently featured in ‘Just Anna’, part of the Brit Rock 2018 tour and ticked off Obsession Fatale, a bold E8 6C, she catches up to discuss why she climbs, and what lies ahead…

Hello Anna, we are delighted to sponsor you, a local female climber who has had a fantastic 2018 – gaining heights in many senses of the word. Let’s begin with the basics, what does climbing mean to you?

Thank guys! I’m very grateful for the support. I started climbing when I was ten and, apart from a small break in my teenage years, it has always been my main focus. When I was younger it was always just something I did for fun, and while that’s still the case I guess it is now a bit more than that. It’s kind of a way of life in that most of the things I do in both my free time and work life are centred around climbing. I like that there is so much variety, that there’s always a new challenge around the corner, and it’s a great distraction from any negative things in life.

At the beginning of 2019, many people pick up hobbies and try new things, here at Dirtbags we are always looking for adventure and to learn skills along the way. What advice would you give someone who would like to begin the sport?

Get some good shoes, learn the basic skills that you need to be safe, and then just have fun with it. What I love about climbing is that it never feels like a particularly serious sport. You can just muck about making up silly boulder problems at your local wall, have loads of fun and still improve.

I’d also say to try and climb with people better than yourself, as it is a great way to learn.I never had any formal coaching but just picked up bits and pieces from the good climbers at the wall.

Anyone who has met you will comment on your grace and how cool, calm and collected you are. How do you handle those climbing nerves? Don’t kid on, we all get them…

It’s funny, the few situations I have been in where a fall would have been genuinely serious I’ve been able to keep my head. I have also lost my cool spectacularly in situations where I probably could’ve fallen off and been fine (unfortunately most of these have been on film). I would partly put that down to inexperience, as I have definitely thrown myself in at the deep end of a few routes and found myself in situations I wasn’t prepared for, but it’s a valuable learning experience for the future.

On bold climbs if you’re not climbs if you are not climbing efficiently and moving well you are probably in trouble already, so it comes down to being able to switch off your brain for those crucial moments and know you are climbing perfectly, as any shaking or hesitating will probably make you fall off. It is a skill that I haven’t mastered yet, but I’m slowly getting better at it.

Hodge Close
© Alastair Lee

How did you find filming ‘Brit Rock’, and what challenges did you face while being part of the Brit Rock team?

Getting used to being filmed all the time was a bit strange, as I had limited experience with that sort of thing in the past. However by the end it had started to feel more normal and acting natural in front of a camera was a lot easier. I guess the biggest challenge of the whole thing was just getting an ending to the film. I had a project that in the end was climbed by someone else, but I was actually still intending to finish the film off with that route regardless, as I had put so much time into it. However, literally the day after the route was climbed I snapped a finger pully whilst bouldering, and I suddenly couldn’t climb at all! We had two or three weeks left to finish the film, and it was going to take two or three months for my finger to heal. I honestly thought it was over then, but I got really lucky with Obsession Fatale as it was both a route I already really wanted to do, and was also the only one I had a chance of climbing whilst injured – so we just about got away with it.

Obsession Fatale
© Neil Gresham

Where is your favourite place to climb?

That’s a tough one! I love to climb in so many places but if I had to pick just one I’d probably go for a place called Reiff on the North-West coast of Scotland. I’ve been on family holidays there since I was little, and it is where I did a lot of my first outdoor climbs, so it is pretty special to me.

It is one of the most beautiful areas I have been to; I have had some pretty great evenings bouldering on the cliffs with just a few seals and porpoises for company. To me it doesn’t get much better than that.

What lies ahead for you this year, and what are you most excited about?

At the moment I’m trying to put in some training time for the coming year. I have always been very guilty of relying on technique when climbing, and my power and endurance suffered, so it has been nice to make progress with those. I think I am most looking forward to just expanding the range of climbing that I do. I travelled around the UK a bit this year, so the plan is to go back fitter and more experienced and hopefully start ticking some routes off.

The UK has so much variety within climbing, and I want to experience as much of that as I can.

Has climbing outdoors affected the way you see our landscape and the place you live? How would you encourage climbers to look after our environment?

Absolutely. I was born in the Lake District and I still live here, I probably took the area for granted when I was younger, as it was all I’d ever known. Now I’m a little more travelled I can see more clearly how special this place is, and spending time on the crags only reinforces that more. It is important for climbers to remember that although they are climbing on a crag, it doesn’t give them any right to alter or damage the landscape around it.

I am a massive animal lover so seeing things like cigarette butts, plastic and other potentially harmful things at crags always make me sad, as it show how careless some people can be. It only takes a small amount of common sense to leave a crag how you found it, and this is particularly important in the somewhere like the lakes.

Posted on Leave a comment

Philosopher’s Backpack

We have teamed up with Jane Yates, a lead practitioner for global learning, to create a teaching tool that has a history. Philosophy for Children (P4C) is a learning programme where children are encouraged to think for themselves, and to create their own philosophy out of their responses to the Philosopher’s ‘kit’ presented to them.

Learn more about Philosophy for Children

Research in P4C provides evidence that it not only increases thinking and listening skills, but also skills of communication, self-esteem, confidence, behaviour and engagement with learning across subject areas

Jane Yates

Sounds good to us.

An ethical backpack as a visual prompt and to carry the tools needed for exploration into philosophical thinking is needed. This is where we step in!

We have designed and built a small backpack using only recycled materials for this purpose.

The Backpack features:

Embroidered lid

Straps reinforced with climbing rope.

Recycled canvas tent and fabric offcuts from local manufacturers.

Buckles and webbing repurposed from life jackets, tents and rucksacks.

Colours may vary.

Read more…

Contact us to enquire